There are around 8,000 synthetic chemicals used in the manufacturing process of the clothing industry, from material procurement to the finished product. Since we cannot cover all chemicals and their function, this article will focus on the most common and harmful substances. These include, but are not limited to, flame retardants, polyfluorinated substances (PFAS)*, lead and chromium, phthalates, chlorine bleach, AZO dyes, and volatile organic chemicals (VOCs)+ such as formaldehyde.
Toxic substances are used during the cultivation of a plant, during the production of a yarn, but also during dyeing or printing graphics. Each manufacturing process uses dozens of toxic substances that persist in the fabric, are absorbed by our body and released into the water during washing, throughout the useful life of a garment.
Regulations for clothing are different in each country. What you buy in China may not be prohibited in that country where the GB/T 18401 regulation is in force, but it may be illegal in Europe under the REACH regulation, or in California where the Proposition 65 regulation is present.
Choosing products made in Europe is equivalent to buying products that comply with the REACH law, which excludes more than 1,000 toxic substances dangerous for the environment and human health. It must also be said that this legislation, although not the best, improves year after year, increasing the number of prohibited substances and reducing the margins of the toxic ones still allowed. Alternatively, we have the classic environmental certifications, such as OEKO-TEX, GOTS and Bluesign. It is not easy to find these labels on clothing displayed in large retail chains, nor is it easy to find them in stores in our cities.
In principle, the toxic substances that we can find in clothing and fabrics are these:
1) Aromatic amines. Carcinogens derived from azo dyes, banned in Europe since the early 90s but which are still regularly searched for and which sometimes surprise us when they are present. It is a list of 24 carcinogenic compounds currently regulated in most of the world (including China).
2) AZO dyes make up 60-70% of fabric dyes and are responsible for the vivid colors that can be seen in many textiles, especially in clothing concentrated in black and brown pigmentation. Azo dyes can leach quickly from fabrics, and once they come into contact with the skin, they break down and release chemicals called aromatic amines, which cause skin allergies and dermatitis.
3) Alkylphenol ethoxylates. In chemical jargon the acronyms APEO, ethoxylated, and AP, non-ethoxylated, are indicated. They are non-ionic surfactants used massively until 2007 and are highly contaminating aquifers. Regulated only in Europe (unpleasant surprises often come from China and other countries).
4) Heavy metals. Possible contaminants due to dyes and/or ways of preserving the fibers. There are around 9 metallic species present in garments of poor quality and dubious origin. In the manufacturing process, Lead and Chromium materials are used to stabilize the color in the dyeing process. You can find these elements in brightly colored synthetic products.
5) Dimethyl fumarate. Strong anti-mildew used to preserve natural fibers during long periods of storage. It has the bad habit of being a strong allergen.
6) Solvents, adhesives, plastic and metal accessories, synthetic dyes and fibers used during the production process release VOCs. Some common VOCs are formaldehyde, toluene, ethylene glycol, benzene, methylene chloride, 1,3-butadiene, xylene, and tetrachloroethylene. These chemicals allow for an easy-care finish, such as wrinkle-free products. However, VOCs are a major occupational hazard, as the release of gases can cause damage to the developmental and reproductive system, skin and eye irritation, and liver and respiratory problems.
7) Chlorophenols. They belong to the family of biocides/pesticides. Precisely for this function they are found in natural fibers, particularly cellulose. Sometimes they are waste products of certain dyes.
8) Phthalates. Compounds used as plasticizers for PVC Some of these are mutagenic. They are regulated in Europe, America and China (baby products only).
9) Dyes. Allergenic and/or carcinogenic, regulated only in Europe, are a list of dyes of various kinds.
10) Formaldehyde. It is used as a bactericidal in industrial textile production. It is also used in textile dyeing to ensure greater stability when washing the fabric.
Look for certifications such as OEKOTEX or GOTS or
There are around 8,000 synthetic chemicals used in the manufacturing process of the clothing industry, from material procurement to the finished product. Since we cannot cover all chemicals and their function, this article will focus on the most common and harmful substances. These include, but are not limited to, flame retardants, polyfluorinated substances (PFAS)*, lead and chromium, phthalates, chlorine bleach, AZO dyes, and volatile organic chemicals (VOCs)+ such as formaldehyde.
Toxic substances are used during the cultivation of a plant, during the production of a yarn, but also during dyeing or printing graphics. Each manufacturing process uses dozens of toxic substances that persist in the fabric, are absorbed by our body and released into the water during washing, throughout the useful life of a garment.
Regulations for clothing are different in each country. What you buy in China may not be prohibited in that country where the GB/T 18401 regulation is in force, but it may be illegal in Europe under the REACH regulation, or in California where the Proposition 65 regulation is present.
Choosing products made in Europe is equivalent to buying products that comply with the REACH law, which excludes more than 1,000 toxic substances dangerous for the environment and human health. It must also be said that this legislation, although not the best, improves year after year, increasing the number of prohibited substances and reducing the margins of the toxic ones still allowed. Alternatively, we have the classic environmental certifications, such as OEKO-TEX, GOTS and Bluesign. It is not easy to find these labels on clothing displayed in large retail chains, nor is it easy to find them in stores in our cities.
In principle, the toxic substances that we can find in clothing and fabrics are these:
1) Aromatic amines. Carcinogens derived from azo dyes, banned in Europe since the early 90s but which are still regularly searched for and which sometimes surprise us when they are present. It is a list of 24 carcinogenic compounds currently regulated in most of the world (including China).
2) AZO dyes make up 60-70% of fabric dyes and are responsible for the vivid colors that can be seen in many textiles, especially in clothing concentrated in black and brown pigmentation. Azo dyes can leach quickly from fabrics, and once they come into contact with the skin, they break down and release chemicals called aromatic amines, which cause skin allergies and dermatitis.
3) Alkylphenol ethoxylates. In chemical jargon the acronyms APEO, ethoxylated, and AP, non-ethoxylated, are indicated. They are non-ionic surfactants used massively until 2007 and are highly contaminating aquifers. Regulated only in Europe (unpleasant surprises often come from China and other countries).
4) Heavy metals. Possible contaminants due to dyes and/or ways of preserving the fibers. There are around 9 metallic species present in garments of poor quality and dubious origin. In the manufacturing process, Lead and Chromium materials are used to stabilize the color in the dyeing process. You can find these elements in brightly colored synthetic products.
5) Dimethyl fumarate. Strong anti-mildew used to preserve natural fibers during long periods of storage. It has the bad habit of being a strong allergen.
6) Solvents, adhesives, plastic and metal accessories, synthetic dyes and fibers used during the production process release VOCs. Some common VOCs are formaldehyde, toluene, ethylene glycol, benzene, methylene chloride, 1,3-butadiene, xylene, and tetrachloroethylene. These chemicals allow for an easy-care finish, such as wrinkle-free products. However, VOCs are a major occupational hazard, as the release of gases can cause damage to the developmental and reproductive system, skin and eye irritation, and liver and respiratory problems.
7) Chlorophenols. They belong to the family of biocides/pesticides. Precisely for this function they are found in natural fibers, particularly cellulose. Sometimes they are waste products of certain dyes.
8) Phthalates. Compounds used as plasticizers for PVC Some of these are mutagenic. They are regulated in Europe, America and China (baby products only).
9) Dyes. Allergenic and/or carcinogenic, regulated only in Europe, are a list of dyes of various kinds.
10) Formaldehyde. It is used as a bactericidal in industrial textile production. It is also used in textile dyeing to ensure greater stability when washing the fabric.
Look for certifications such as OEKOTEX or GOTS or
1) Prioritize